Chow Talk with Sung Kang, Part 1

Part 2

Two basic questions reveal much about any animal: What does it eat? Where does it live? Sung Kang’s a breed of his own in the film world, winning fans with roles that shatter Asian stereotypes. He lives in Los Angeles, and he eats, well, some interesting stuff. Since he owns a restaurant, I thought it would be fun to talk chow with Sung. And it was. You won’t believe what he does with ice cream.

Who is Sung Kang? He played the muscular bad boy in Justin Lin’s 2002 breakout drama Better Luck Tomorrow. The cool “older brother” in The Fast and The Furious 3: Tokyo Drift. The narcissistic president in Mad TV’s uproarious K-Drama spoof. The heartbreaking drunk in 2006’s The Motel. And the Alabama wannabe in last year’s Finishing the Game. But when he plays himself, Kang’s humor, humility and unforced interest in others endear him to everyone he meets.

Our shared Southern heritage is just one reason I love this down-to-earth star. Although Kang’s parents are from South Korea, he grew up in Gainesville, Georgia, land of Moon Pies and overcooked vegetables. He moved to Los Angeles in the mid 1990s to pursue an acting career; his dining tastes expanded with the West Coast’s eclectic influences. He and his fiancée opened Saketini a few years ago.

Saketini’s menu features Asian-fusion dishes with incredible presentation. Yet I know that Sung’s humble middle-American childhood has also shaped his palate. I do all the cooking at my house, so I wondered aloud what he’d like me to make if he popped by for a visit.

Whatever dish you’re really excited about at the time. Meatloaf, some Korean dish you wanted to make—it doesn’t really matter. Home cooked meals, wanting to share—that’s really what it’s all about. If I said, “I want this,” that’s not really the true definition of sharing. If it came from a place of fun and sharing, then I’d appreciate it.

“So, you’re not a picky eater?”

No, not at all. I don’t discriminate.

“Hey, that’s great. The reason I asked is, I wondered if you’d like a favorite dish from your Southern childhood—something you maybe couldn’t get in L.A, or that wasn’t as good at a restaurant.”

“Now, my husband was adopted from Korea as a baby, and his white parents have the most bourgeois taste in food. I mean, casseroles made with cream-of-something soup are a food group to them. But Jeremy still talks about his food “aha” moments, when his horizons got broadened—like the first time he had Indian food or a fancy salad at a friend’s house. Can you recall a time when you tried something that really opened up your culinary horizons?”

Yes, the first time I went to a neighbor’s house for dinner. I was in fourth grade, he was maybe a grade ahead, and he asked me over. I was asked to stay for dinner. Well, they had spaghetti, and it was the first time that I’d had spaghetti at someone’s house. And it was delicious. My idea of what American spaghetti is came from that experience. You know, the cheese on top, the sauce being served separately—however much you want—the dinner salad. It was an amazing experience for me. It was the first time I’d eaten with a non-Korean, non-family group. The way they used cutlery, everything, was interesting. It piqued my interest-just the way people share and congregate.

“You know, my husband got me a book about Korean military brides—women who left Korea to marry white and black American men. And this book talked about how important food was to these women, and how much it reminded them of their Korean homeland…how it wasn’t just the food that was different, but the style of eating. So you’re right—that’s an important part of any meal.”

“Another funny thing about Jeremy—he loves very hot food, despite not having grown up with it. I know that you’ve traveled to several Asian countries and sampled some pretty hot stuff. Do you think a preference for spicy is all cultural—or is some of it genetic? As in, some people just inherently can’t take the heat, or prefer it?”

Interesting question. I wish we could come up with quantitative numbers. I have a close friend who’s a Korean adoptee, and his mom would always say to me, “Look at the way he sits, the kimchee squat.” He would squat, whereas American people would kneel, and no one taught him that. That correlates to food. Now, Jeremy, he probably grew up with mayo, ranch dressing, creamy sides….and now, Jeremy just craves spicy food. Maybe if you tracked down his ancestors, they would be from a province with very hot food, like from the North.

“Is the food hotter up there?”

I have no idea. Because everything’s so closed up there [in North Korea], no one’s tracked it.

“I know—it’s sad.”

Now, I do know Pusan loves seafood, because they’re by the ocean and it’s available. The city folk from Seoul, they have a multinational, eclectic cuisine. It would be interesting to see where Jeremy’s family tree goes.

For me, it was interesting to see the nature-versus-nurture debate play out in the taste buds. Sung and I were in agreement.

“You know, Sung, good food is integral to good health. I had horrible eating habits as a teenager, and college students are notorious for bad eating. But ironically, the college cafeteria helped me. I saw other kids loading up their salad plates and cooking stir-frys in the woks, and decided to follow the crowd, and soon my better eating habits actually improved my immune system. Have your healthy-eating habits changed over time?”

Yes, actually—they’ve gotten worse. When I used to swim, in high school, I was very disciplined. Then, after I got out of college, if I had a stressful day, then I was like, “Ding Dong, Twinkie, chimichanga”—you know, instant gratification. I’m reaching for the hot sauce and corn dogs.

[Food] affects your mood, your mental state, and how your life is. You have to look at the whole thing on a macro level: “Is this the life that I want to be living?”

When I’m relaxed and optimistic and I don’t let the world stress me out, I eat great! But stress is a huge factor in unhealthy eating.

“I can totally relate to that, Sung. I had a very stressful day today, so I picked up Jeremy at work and said, ‘Let’s go to McDonald’s.’”

“Any junk foods that are temptations for you? And do you abstain completely, or just limit portions?”

I stay away from ice cream. I’ll eat the whole thing. I grew up watching commercials on TV—you know, Elena, you and I are from the same generation—and seeing someone drowning their sorrows in ice cream. You know, wooden spoon, sitting there with the whole carton. But if I’m happy, I’ll celebrate with ice cream.

I just will not stop. If I leave the house, and there’s ice cream in the freezer, I will go back and eat it all! And I am not picky. Rite Aid ice cream is what I grew up with, so I love it. But I love Häagen Dasz, and Godiva, too. Ice cream is just my poison. A shake, a malt—I have to have it. I’ll even order an apple pie, and just eat the ice cream. Someone else will eat the pie.

I found all this a little mind-boggling. A whole carton?! Despite his chiseled physique, Sung Kang struggles with the same comfort-food cravings as the rest of us.

Of course, I didn’t tell him my nemesis—a sweet tooth that likes constant, small portions. My brothers still harass me about why the cookies were gone.

“I ate four!”

“Uh, yeah, Elena. Four at a time!”

When Sung and I continue our conversation, you’ll hear more about Saketini, significant others, and our emotional connections to food.